Hardening off
Indoor plants have soft tissue. Over 5–7 days, move them outside into shade for a few hours, then more sun and wind each day. Bring them in if nights drop hard. Skip this step and leaves bleach or wilt even if the calendar looks fine.
Crop timing outdoors
| Crop | Plant out when | Watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Tomato | After last frost; nights usually above ~50°F | Black plastic or wall-of-water only if you know your microclimate |
| Pepper, eggplant | A week or more after tomatoes; soil warm | Cold nights yellow leaves and slow growth |
| Cucumber, squash | Soil near 60°F+; after frost | Direct sow often beats a root-bound transplant |
| Broccoli, cabbage, kale | Can go earlier; they tolerate cool nights | Hard freezes still damage small starts |
| Onion sets / plants | As soon as soil can be worked in spring | Long-day vs short-day type for your latitude |
How to plant
- Water the seedling in its pot an hour before you dig.
- Set tomatoes deeper than they sat in the pot; keep peppers at the same depth.
- Firm soil gently. Water in. Mulch after a day or two once soil is settled.
- Use the plant spacing calculator so the bed is not overcrowded on day one.
Frequently asked questions
Can I transplant on a hot afternoon?
Evening or a cloudy day is kinder. If you must plant in heat, shade for a day and water deeply.
My seedlings are flowering in the tray. Plant them?
Yes if the outdoor date is right — pinch early flowers on peppers and tomatoes if the plant is still tiny. Next year start a week later or pot up sooner.